Camino de la muerte, on the way to Coroïco

This road is said to be the most dangerous road in the world. Why is that so? Well actually, now that trucks don’t ride on it anymore, it’s a bit safer! This quasi 2-meter broad road was used for transportation of goods in both directions, until Bolivians decided to invest in less mortality. Trucks were often hanging wheels in the air, when the ones on the other side were trying their best to pass. Impossible traffic used to go on and many people died on it. Down the hill, 3600 meters of downfall await for your body. The vegetation around it is beautiful though, but a few graves on the way will remind you of its history.

It takes 64 kms to go from La Paz to Coroïco, through the sub-tropical Yungas. Rocky overhangs give away to waterfalls, as you cycle down on the mountain side. Until now, the count is of 55 declared deaths. Bikers still take this road today, followed by touristic buses. Of course now, it is much less dangerous because no truck takes the chance to ride on it. In fact, another newer and wider road has been built.

Those who go on this track will enjoy the beautiful and unique scenery of the Yungas, wind in the face. Every biker is protected by a helmet and rides a secure bike. You can also choose to drive to Coroïco or walk the 64 km! You might encounter herds of llamas or a lost dog once in a while (make sure not to get bitten, because they sometimes carry rabies).

You are first taken by bus to the top of the “Cumbre” where you set your gear up and get your clothes ready. In deed, depending of the season, it can get really cold.

The bikes are actually pulled by gravity. Most of the way is downhill, but the path is not so steap. You can go pretty fast (up to 80 km/h) until you reach the ramshackle Unduavi checkpoint.

Do not worry, most of you are able to do this. There is no excessive reason to be scared. The only trouble is really the altitude that gives you difficulty breathing, but the path is safe as long as you respect your capacities and do not decide to go berzerk on the turns!

On this road, the driver’s seat must be closest to the edge to carefully visualise his distance to the edge. The beautiful scenery will keep you distracted from the danger, but reminders of death will make you push on the brakes when necessary.

You get to Coroïco sooner that you think. It’s a marvellous little town full of foreign restaurants and parties. You can even do horseback riding in the mountains. You can also buy many hand-made jewelleries on the streets. Don’t miss the occasion to try an avocado or mandarines!

Some bikers go directly back to La Paz by bus, exhausted. Others decide to stay the night in Coroïco. If you do so, make sure you’ve booked a room in a hostel a few days in advance, because there are not so many rooms available, especially on week-ends.